AllRoadFAQ.com Audi C5 2.7T Labree ...

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Installation of LaBree Down pipes for the allroad AT – Tiptronic (by
allroad2001)
WARNING: Before you consider this upgrade please be aware that these DP’s will not fit
100% the AT allroad, cutting and welding is required! They are made for the MT version
of the Audi allroad.
The total time spend for this install was around 8 hours because of all the modifications
that had to be made.
You will need a good set of Metric wrenches and sockets, ply bar, O2 sensor removal
tool, Grinder or angle Grinder, hacksaw or similar to cut the pipes, power drill with metal
bits and all the usual like WD-40, maybe some Brake or other cleaner, screw drivers etc
pp.
It is highly recommended to use a lift for this mod – and don’t forget to enable jack-
mode!
And of course – you’ll need the equipment and someone who can weld stainless steel
pipes.
The Package you’ll receive from Tantrumwerks contains all necessary items to install the
DP’s and catalytic converters, optional are the Test pipes, which replace the Catalytic
converter for Track days.
At first, disconnect and remove the exhaust system from the car, it will be in your way
and it is easy to remove anyways.
Next, remove the engine covers and disconnect the O2 sensors under the hood (connector
mount on Passenger site – follow the wire to be sure). I would also recommend to remove
as much from the Air intake and hoses as possible to create more working room and
easier access.
Place a hydraulic support unit under the Transmission and loosen the engine Sub-frame.
This will give you enough space to maneuver/lower the engine to access the bolts
connecting the Down pipe and Turbo.
Prior to any attempt to loosen the bolts, spray on some WD-40 or similar, as you can see
in the picture, they are quite rusty and we don’t want to break them off.
The bolt sitting in the highest position is a bit difficult to remove, most likely you will be
able to get them only by going through the engine compartment. It will require some
patience ;-)
Remove the O2 sensors and store them in a safe place for the installation part.
The greatest challenge is removing the Turbo heat shields within the engine
compartment. After some frustrating attempts I’ve decided to simply cut them out or bent
the shield into a position that allowed to access the turbo bolts. They are made of material
so a good pair of plate shears will help to do the job.
After removing the old DP’s, the fun really begins. The driver side DP will fit quite
perfect, the Passenger side will require close attention.
I would recommend placing the old and new DP next to each other to better visualize the
angle you’ll need to create on the new DP.
This is how it looks prior to cutting the right side DP, it will hit on the transmission.
I recommend to cut the DP in two places. First, shortly after the flex pipe and second
about 1.5” from the merging pipes -> see picture.
Make it a straight cut if possible so you can turn the cut out middle piece of the pipe for
appropriate adjustments. Bolt on the DP header of the pipe to the Turbo, hold the cut out
pipe in the place where you want them, use a black marker to mark their new, to be
welded position. That was easy, wasn’t it ;-)
After you market it down – weld the DP header and middle piece of the cut out pipe and
confirm the correct position. Now weld on the Flex piece if the DP and let it cool down.
For a correct match, I took a picture of the position of the flex pipe BEFORE it was cut
off. This will ensure to weld it back into the same angle.
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